Electric blue acara care guide: tank size, water, diet and tank mates

01

Electric blue acara care at a glance

The electric blue acara (often shortened to EBA) is a line-bred color form of the blue acara, Andinoacara pulcher. Instead of the gray-blue body of the wild fish, it shows a solid metallic blue with darker spangles and, in good specimens, an orange edge on the dorsal fin. Whether it is a pure A. pulcher strain or carries some hybrid ancestry is still debated, but its care matches that of the blue acara.

What sets it apart from many cichlids is temperament. An adult electric blue acara is calm, rarely bullies fish of similar size and does not tear up plants systematically. That makes it a popular centerpiece for a community tank of medium to large fish, as long as you accept one rule: small fish that fit in its mouth will eventually be eaten. Start with a fully cycled tank, because cichlids of this size produce a lot of waste.

• Tank: 40 gallons (150 L) for a single fish, 55 gallons (210 L) or more for a pair
• Heater: adjustable, set to about 78 °F (25.5 °C)
• Filter: strong biological filtration, canister or large hang-on-back
• Substrate: sand or smooth fine gravel, since acaras dig
• Decor: driftwood, rocks, caves, hardy plants attached to wood

02

Origin and natural habitat

The electric blue acara does not exist in the wild; it was developed in captivity. Its wild ancestor, the blue acara, lives in Trinidad and in coastal drainages of northern Venezuela and Colombia. It occupies slow rivers, creeks, ponds and ditches, often with muddy or sandy bottoms and plenty of vegetation and wood.

The species is adaptable in the wild, tolerating a fairly broad range of temperature and hardness. Captive-bred electric blue acaras inherit that flexibility, which is why they adapt well to most US tap water once it is dechlorinated. The older genus name Aequidens pulcher is still common on store labels.

03

Adult size and lifespan

Electric blue acaras usually reach 6–7 inches (15–18 cm), with males larger than females. Males often develop longer, more pointed dorsal and anal fins and, with age, a slight forehead bump. Females are smaller and rounder, and their color can be a little less intense. Many electric blue specimens stay slightly smaller than wild blue acaras.

With clean water and a varied diet, they commonly live 8–10 years. That is a long commitment, so plan the tank for the adult size from the start rather than for the 2-inch juvenile in the store.

04

Electric blue acara tank size

A single electric blue acara needs at least a 40-gallon (150 L) tank, preferably a 40 breeder with a large footprint of about 36 x 18 inches (91 x 46 cm). For a pair, or for one acara with a community of mid-sized fish, 55 gallons (210 L) is the realistic starting point and 75 gallons (285 L) gives more peace during breeding. See our best 55-gallon aquarium picks if you are choosing a tank.

Acaras dig, especially before spawning, so use sand or smooth fine gravel and anchor heavy rocks directly on the glass bottom before adding substrate. Plants such as java fern and anubias attached to wood survive best. Provide a few caves and flat stones, and leave open swimming space in front.

05

Water parameters

The electric blue acara is less demanding than most South American cichlids. It does well in soft to moderately hard water and a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. As with all cichlids, what matters most is low nitrate and zero ammonia and nitrite. Large fish produce a lot of waste, so test weekly (our best aquarium test kit guide compares liquid kits) and read our guide to aquarium water parameters to interpret your results.

06

Diet and feeding

In the wild, blue acaras eat insects, larvae, worms, small crustaceans, plant matter and the occasional small fish. In the aquarium, base the diet on a quality sinking cichlid pellet or stick, and add frozen foods two to three times a week: bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis and krill. Some vegetable matter, such as pellets with spirulina or blanched peas, adds variety.

Feed adults once or twice a day, only what they finish in about two minutes. Juveniles grow faster with two to three small meals. Avoid feeding live feeder fish: they add little nutritional value and are a common way to bring diseases into the tank.

07

Behavior and tank mates

Electric blue acaras are among the most peaceful medium cichlids. Outside breeding, they mostly ignore fish of similar size. When a pair spawns, they defend a territory around the eggs and fry and can chase other fish quite firmly, which is why space matters. Individual temperament varies: some males stay gentle for life, others become pushy as they mature.

Choose tank mates that are too big to swallow and not aggressive enough to bully the acara. Our guide to cichlid tank mates covers more combinations. Avoid very aggressive Central American cichlids such as convicts or Jack Dempseys in average-sized tanks, and avoid aggressive African mbuna, which also need very different water.

• Good tank mates: angelfish (in a tall, spacious tank), bristlenose plecos, larger corydoras, pearl gouramis, severums, rainbowfish, silver dollars, Congo tetras
• Risky: German blue rams and other dwarf cichlids (may be bullied), large tetras such as black skirts
• Avoid: neon tetras, ember tetras, guppies and shrimp (eaten), aggressive cichlids, oscars and other large predators

08

Breeding electric blue acaras

Electric blue acaras are open-substrate spawners and form stable pairs. Buying a group of juveniles and letting a pair form is the most reliable approach. A pair cleans a flat stone or a piece of slate, and the female lays about 150–400 eggs. Both parents guard the clutch and fan it.

Eggs hatch in about 3 days at 78–80 °F (25.5–26.5 °C); the parents often move the wrigglers to pits dug in the sand, and the fry swim freely after about another 4–5 days. Feed them baby brine shrimp and crushed fry food. Pairs are protective, so move other fish out or use a larger tank. Note that some electric blue strains are reported to have weaker fry and lower fertility than wild-type blue acaras.

09

Common electric blue acara diseases

Acaras are hardy, but long-term poor water quality and rising nitrate cause most of their problems. Hole-in-the-head disease, which appears as pits on the head and lateral line, is strongly associated with poor water and diet in cichlids. Test the water first whenever your fish looks unwell.

Quarantine new fish for 2–4 weeks if you can. For any serious or spreading case, contact an aquatic veterinarian and follow the medication label.

10

Recommended gear

A 55-gallon acara tank needs filtration rated for at least that volume, ideally more. A canister filter is the most common choice, and our best canister filter guide compares reliable models from Fluval, Eheim and others. Pair it with an adjustable heater of about 200 W for 55 gallons; our best aquarium heater guide explains how to size and choose one.

Add a gravel vacuum to make weekly water changes quick, a water conditioner that neutralizes chlorine and chloramine, a liquid test kit, and a tight lid, because acaras can jump when startled.