Where to start
Iwagumi aquascape guide: stones, carpet plants and setup
The minimalist Japanese stone layout: how to pick and place the main stone, grow a carpet and keep algae away.
AquascapingDutch aquascape guide: rules, plants and how to build one
The original plant-only aquascape: terraces of stem plants, color contrast, streets and the weekly trimming it takes.
AquascapingWalstad method: complete guide to the dirted, low-tech planted tank
Diana Walstad’s soil-based, low-tech planted tank: no CO2, little or no fertilizer and rare water changes.
PlantsCarpet aquarium plants: 12 ground cover plants, from easy to expert
Dwarf hairgrass, Monte Carlo and other foreground carpets, the base of most Iwagumi and Nature layouts.
PlantsAquarium CO2 guide: when you need it and how to set it up safely
When pressurized CO2 is worth it, how much to inject and how to keep fish safe.
01
What aquascaping is (and is not)
Aquascaping is the craft of designing a planted aquarium as a landscape. The term covers everything from a contest-grade Iwagumi to a relaxed jungle tank on a bookshelf. What makes it an aquascape is composition: a focal point, a sense of depth, a deliberate choice of plants and hardscape, and fish that fit the scene.
It is not a separate hobby with separate rules. Every aquascape is still a living tank that needs to be cycled before fish go in, stable water and a stocking level the filter can handle. The style you choose mainly decides how much light, CO2, fertilizer and trimming time you sign up for.
02
Aquascape styles compared
The table below sums up the five styles most keepers start with. Effort and budget are relative: a 20 gallon (75 L) Iwagumi with pressurized CO2 costs and demands far more than a Walstad tank of the same size.
| Style | Look | Hardscape | Typical plants | Light / CO2 | Effort |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nature aquarium | Natural landscape: hills, forests, riverbanks | Wood and rock, often both | Mosses, carpets, stem plants, epiphytes | Medium to high / usually injected | Medium to high |
| Iwagumi | Minimal grassland with stones | Odd number of stones of one type | One carpet species, few or no others | High / injected | High |
| Dutch | Dense, colorful underwater garden | Little or none visible | Many stem plants grouped in terraces | High / injected | Very high (weekly trims) |
| Jungle | Wild, overgrown, tall plants | Wood, roots, some rock | Swords, crypts, vallisneria, floaters | Low to medium / optional | Low |
| Walstad (low-tech) | Natural, heavily planted, slightly untamed | Optional | Fast growers, floaters, crypts, swords | Low to medium / none | Low after setup |
03
How to choose an aquascape style
Start with the time you can give the tank each week, not with the photo you like best. A Dutch tank needs serious trimming every week, and an Iwagumi can tip into algae within days if CO2 or light drifts. A jungle or Walstad tank forgives a missed week.
Then look at budget and gear. High-tech styles rely on a strong aquarium light, a pressurized CO2 system and a nutrient-rich aquarium substrate. Low-tech styles run on a basic LED, a soil or root-tab substrate and easy beginner plants.
Finally, think about fish. Iwagumi and Dutch layouts suit one big school of small fish. A jungle tank hides shy species and fry. A Walstad tank works best lightly stocked, which makes it a good home for a betta or a group of shrimp.
- Little time, small budget: jungle or Walstad
- Love plants and color, can trim weekly: Dutch
- Love clean lines and rock: Iwagumi (start small, 15–20 gallons / 60–75 L)
- Want a bit of everything: Nature aquarium with wood, rock and easy epiphytes
04
Where to start
If you have never kept live plants, grow a few hardy species first: Java fern and anubias attached to wood will teach you how light and nutrients behave without much risk. Once plants are growing well, move to a carpet such as dwarf hairgrass and a style with more structure.
Whatever the style, plan the hardscape before you add water, fill the tank heavily with plants from day one and keep the photoperiod moderate (6–8 hours) for the first weeks. That combination prevents most of the algae problems that end new aquascapes.
Sketch your layout from the front and from above before buying rock or wood. Most layouts look best with the focal point about one third of the way across the tank, not in the middle.
Every guide in this section
Frequently asked questions
Frequently asked questions
What is the easiest aquascape style for beginners?
Jungle and Walstad-style tanks are the easiest. Both rely on hardy, fast-growing plants under moderate light, need no CO2 injection and tolerate an untidy week. Iwagumi and Dutch layouts look simple in photos but are the hardest to keep stable because they depend on strong light, CO2 and constant trimming.
Do I need CO2 for an aquascape?
No, but it depends on the style. Iwagumi carpets and Dutch stem-plant gardens almost always need pressurized CO2 to grow dense and stay algae-free. Jungle, Walstad and many Nature-style tanks built around epiphytes, crypts and swords do well without it, as long as the light is kept moderate.
What is the difference between aquascape and aquascaping?
An aquascape is the finished planted layout; aquascaping is the craft of designing and maintaining it. Both terms are used interchangeably in search and in the hobby. Aquascape styles are the recognized design approaches, such as Iwagumi, Dutch, Nature aquarium and jungle.
What size tank is best for aquascaping?
Most keepers start with 15–30 gallons (60–110 L). Small nano tanks are cheap to fill but swing quickly in temperature and nutrients, while large tanks need more plants, hardscape and light. A long 20 gallon (75 L) tank is a comfortable first aquascape for almost any style.
Sources and references
Written and reviewed by the handsoffmyhobby editorial team according to our editorial policy.
